Debut clothing collection ‘Adelphi’ by Crumlin native Louise Tracey

CUTTING through fabric to craft precious and durable pieces that embody an androgynous style are the hallmark of fashion designer and Crumlin native Louise Tracey’s debut clothing collection.

Adelphi is a collection that features masculine styles with a feminine twist, and Louise has plans for all of her collections to be named after old cinemas from across Dublin, to inject a bit of old world glamour.

The Grafton Academy graduate is already preparing to release her second collection, and she talked us through the feedback the Adelphi collection has received so far and changes she’d like to see in the fashion industry.

What did the first piece of clothing that you designed look like?

The first term of classes I did at the Grafton Academy focused on skirts, so we spent weeks learning how to make a basic skirt block and how to manipulate it – changing the shape, adding volume and pleats etc. My first piece of clothing was designed and made in that class, so it was a skirt! The top section, around the hips, had a black & grey lace overlay, with an asymmetrical black wool suiting skirt below. It isn’t a style that I would wear now but I still have it – it has a special place in my heart so it has survived many wardrobe culls and now lives hanging up on a wall in my sewing studio.

When did you first realise that you wanted to pursue a career as a fashion designer?

I’ve been dreaming of doing this pretty much since I first learned how to draft patterns and sew clothes. In the years in between I’ve made a lot of my own clothes (and a couple of presents!) but it wasn’t until an opportunity came along to take some time out from regular life last year that I said okay, this is a now or never moment – it was time to just do it.

Is there a particular person whose style you admire?

There are two people, the first is Claire McCardell, an American designer from the 1930’s to 1950’s. I love her aesthetic, she was clearly influenced by Chanel in that she also took elements from menswear, but she has quite a different look. The second is Héloise Letissier from Christine and the Queens. She’s a French singer-songwriter with very cool moves! She often wears suits on stage and the combination of suit, self-assuredness and dancing makes for a very striking impression. 

Your new collection Adelphi blends androgynous style with a feminine touch, what was the main inspiration behind the collection?

The Adelphi collection is mostly inspired by menswear, by taking aspects of menswear and reimagining and reconfiguring them for ladieswear. For example, the sleeveless shift dresses started with the seed of, ‘what if you take an oversized grandfather shirt and turned it into a dress?’ So the collar, sleeves and cuffs have all been removed but what remains is that sense of fullness and freedom of movement along with the buttoned up front and curved shirt tail.

You also have a focus on sustainable fashion as opposed to fast fashion. What changes would you like to see in the fashion industry?

I do, yes. I really don’t believe in fast fashion and I think we’d be better served by taking a more considered approach to our wardrobe – picking clothes because we love them and can see ourselves wearing them for years, and supporting brands whose ethos we believe in. I think the biggest change I would like to see in the fashion industry would be an end to sweatshops, and to bring manufacturing back to the rest of the world so it wouldn’t just be made in these highly concentrated manufacturing centres.

You’ve already sold a number of pieces in your Adelphi line, what has the feedback been like so far?

The predominant response whenever anyone comes in contact with these pieces is ‘oh my god it’s so soft!’ It’s been a constant from Hazel, our model at the photoshoot, through to people at the launch, and our customers. I’ve also had other great feedback, with one customer describing her dress as the most well made item of clothing she owns. We’re delighted with the response so far and I particularly love hearing that people really like the fabric or think the clothes are well made, since I personally choose the fabrics and make every item.

What can you tell us about your plans for a second collection?

The second collection is already in the works and I’m excited to really get down to work on it. It will be released in September 2017 and there will be more of a focus on outer wear. I’ve actually been wearing a prototype of a coat and a bomber jacket for months now and I love them. The new fabric has been delivered so now it’s a case of finalising the patterns and getting down to the sewing. We’ll also be extending our size range for the next collection, we currently have Small, Medium and Large but next time we’ll have XS/S/M/L/XL/XXL, which corresponds to sizes 8-18 in numbered sizes.

You can find out more about Louise’s clothing line online at www.assemble.ie